The Martha Top was designed by a German designer. My pattern was entirely in German. I participated in an “International Sew Along” for this pattern on facebook where someone graciously translated the text for us! However, since then the designer has made this pattern available on etsy and I believe it includes an English translation.
The pattern goes by Euro sizing and all the measurements are in cm. I ended up going with a size 40. I wanted a more loose top. I usually wear smalls/6 in store bought clothing.
Probably the most challenging part of this pattern is actually deciding on what options you are going to use. There are two sized hoods, a cowl neck, v neck, pleated bodice, plain bodice, front pocket, plain front, two different lengths, three sleeve options and nursing friendly options!
I went through the pattern several times before printing or cutting anything out. I found it very helpful to print out the English translation to use as a reference while going through the German version. The pictures and diagrams are very clear and you can really almost only use those to make it. There are really just a few parts I relied on translation for. Mostly the cutting charts for the sleeve cuffs and which part of the sleeve was the front and back…oh and the seam allowance!
When printing the pattern you will find that different options are in separate files. For example the sleeves each have their own file, one for the puff sleeve and one for the plain. There is no layer option for this pattern so you will have to print off all the sizes. I printed in black and white and was still easily able to follow my size. The numerical sizing is listed several times on the cutting lines. The designer uses star shapes and lines to help line up the pieces. Go by those and not on lining up your pieces of paper. My pages seems to all be uneven but everything was fine if those stars lined up!
As I mentioned before I made a size 40. I used medium weight cotton lycra fabric from Purple Seamstress in two tone charcoal and light mint. I went with the non pleated bodice, plain long sleeves, pocket front cut on the wider hip line, and the cowl neckline. The cowl neck in the pattern comes to a point and uses a drawstring. I opted to square off my cowl and eliminate the drawstring. I also went with the longest length.
The pattern sews up very easy once you get past the language difference. All the pieces fit together well. I did have to ease the front bodice onto the front, but I think it is designed to be that way. There is no pattern piece for the bottom of the top. She leaves that up to you. I chose to make my band the same width as the bottom of the top and cut it 6 1/2″ tall so that it would be 3″ halved and sewn.
I have to say that I am so happy with how this top came out. It is incredibly comfortable! Most of the time I don’t like to make more than one of such a distinctive top, but I am not sure I can resist this time. It just works so perfect over leggings. I am so grateful to the members of the sew along for translating this pattern. I am definitely going to try another pattern from this designer again!